Kawakawa

Kawakawa is unlike any other town in New Zealand. This small inland settlement, 20 minutes southwest of Paihia, has transformed itself from a fading coal-mining town into one of Northland’s most talked-about destinations through two unlikely attractions: a public toilet and a steam train. The Hundertwasser Toilets, designed by renowned Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser and opened in 1999, have become one of New Zealand’s most photographed structures, drawing an estimated 250,000 visitors annually. Add to this the Bay of Islands Vintage Railway, where the steam engine Gabriel chugs right down the middle of the main street (New Zealand’s only railway running through a town’s central business district), and you have a destination that delights in its quirky charm. But Kawakawa offers more than these famous attractions. The Te Hononga Hundertwasser Memorial Park celebrates both the artist and local Māori heritage, Kings Theatre Creative showcases regional art in a converted cinema, and the nearby Kawiti Glowworm Caves provide a natural wonder just minutes from town. Whether you’re making a quick stop on your way through Northland or spending time exploring the town’s artistic spirit and railway heritage, Kawakawa proves that character and creativity can revitalize even the smallest communities.

Why Kawakawa Matters

Kawakawa’s transformation from declining coal-mining town to tourism destination is a story of art, heritage, and community spirit. The turning point came when Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser, who had made the nearby Kaurinui Valley his New Zealand home, agreed to design replacement public toilets for the town in the 1990s.

Hundertwasser believed architecture should harmonize with nature rather than dominate it. He famously said “the straight line leads to the downfall of our civilization” and designed buildings with organic curves, bright colours, recycled materials, and living roofs. When Kawakawa’s 1960s toilet block needed replacing, he created a functional facility that’s also a work of art, using recycled bricks, tiles made by local students, and materials from his own studio. Opened in 1999 as his last completed project before his death in 2000, the toilets won the “Golden Plunger” award for the world’s best public toilets and received Category 1 historic place status from Heritage New Zealand in 2023.

The railway through Kawakawa dates to 1867, making it the North Island’s oldest passenger railway line. When New Zealand Railways withdrew services in the 1980s, the community formed the Bay of Islands Vintage Railway Trust to preserve the line. Today, the railway operates as a joint venture between the trust and local iwi Ngāti Hine, with the 1927 steam engine Gabriel (the only one of her type remaining in the world) chugging down the main street, creating one of Northland’s most iconic experiences.

What to See & Do in Kawakawa

The Hundertwasser Toilets

Located at 60 Gillies Street on Kawakawa’s main street, the Hundertwasser Toilets showcase the artist’s signature style with organic curves, bright colours, recycled materials, and a living roof. Recycled bricks, ceramic tiles made by local students, and embedded glass bottles create a functional facility that’s also a work of art. The toilets are free to use and accessible 24/7, and have become one of New Zealand’s most photographed structures.

Te Hononga Hundertwasser Memorial Park

Opened in 2020, this complex adjacent to the toilets celebrates both Hundertwasser and local Māori heritage. The site includes the Kawakawa Memorial Library Centre (with information about Hundertwasser), a visitor information centre, café (when operating), freedom camping area, and green spaces. The design incorporates Māori cultural elements alongside Hundertwasser’s aesthetic, creating a welcoming community space.

Bay of Islands Vintage Railway

The Bay of Islands Vintage Railway operates on the historic Ōpua Branch railway, with trains running right down Kawakawa’s main street – New Zealand’s only railway through a town’s central business district.

The star attraction is Gabriel, a 1927 Peckett steam engine and the only one of her type remaining in the world. After a seven-year restoration, Gabriel returned to service in 2023 and typically runs on weekends and school holidays.

The 2-hour round trip journey departs from the 1911 heritage Kawakawa Railway Station, travels over 14 bridges including Long Bridge at Taumarere (the longest curved wooden railway viaduct in the Southern Hemisphere), through an 80-metre brick-lined tunnel, and past wetlands and the Taumarere River. Guards provide commentary about local history and culture.

Trains run year-round with varying schedules: daily in summer, 5 days in autumn/spring, and 4 days in winter. The railway also accommodates Twin Coast Cycle Trail riders with bike-carrying services.

Kawiti Glowworm Caves

Located 8 minutes (5km) south of Kawakawa on State Highway 1, Kawiti Glowworm Caves offer an intimate 30-minute glowworm experience on Māori land. Tours are guided by descendants of the Kawiti family, providing cultural interpretation alongside the natural spectacle of limestone formations, underground streams, and thousands of glowworms. The caves are named after Chief Kawiti, a key figure in the Northern Wars of the 1840s.

Kings Theatre Creative

This converted cinema on Kawakawa’s main street houses the Bay of Islands’ largest art gallery, representing over 250 artists. The gallery showcases paintings, sculptures, wood carvings, jewellery, glasswork, and other media, with a focus on New Zealand-inspired works and regional artists. For art lovers, this is a highlight, offering unique pieces not found elsewhere. The quirky building adds to the experience. Check opening hours before visiting to avoid disappointment.

Historic Ruapekapeka Pā

Located 14km south of Kawakawa, Ruapekapeka Pā is one of New Zealand’s best-preserved 19th-century battle sites. This fortified pā was the scene of the final major battle of the Northern War in January 1846, where Ngāti Hine and Ngāpuhi warriors defended against British forces. The site features preserved earthwork defences, interpretation panels, and Chief Kawiti’s carronade (cannon). Free to visit year-round.

Practical Info: Getting There & Visitor Tips

Getting There

Kawakawa is located on State Highway 1, 20 minutes (20km) southwest of Paihia, 25 minutes from Kerikeri, and 45 minutes from Whangārei. The town sits on the main route north, making it an easy stop when traveling to the Bay of Islands or Cape Reinga.

From Auckland: 240km (approximately 3 hours’ drive north via SH1).

From Paihia: 20km (20 minutes via SH11 and SH1).

From Kerikeri: 25km (25 minutes via SH10 and SH1).

By Bus: InterCity coaches traveling between Auckland and the Bay of Islands stop at Kawakawa.

Parking: Free parking is available on the main street and near the railway station. During busy periods (weekends, holidays, when the train is running), parking can be limited, but you’ll usually find a spot within a short walk.

How Long to Stay

Most visitors spend 30 minutes to 2 hours in Kawakawa as a stop en route to other destinations. This allows time to:

• Visit and photograph the Hundertwasser Toilets (15-30 minutes)
• Explore Te Hononga Park and get information (15 minutes)
• Browse Kings Theatre Creative gallery if interested in art (30-60 minutes)
• Watch the train arrive and depart (if timing works)

To ride the vintage railway, allow 2.5-3 hours total (including arrival before train departure, the 2-hour round trip journey, and time at the station).

For a more comprehensive visit including Kawiti Caves (30 minutes) and Ruapekapeka Pā (1 hour), plan for 4-5 hours or make Kawakawa a half-day stop.

What to Bring

Sun protection (hat, sunscreen, sunglasses), camera for the unique photo opportunities, comfortable walking shoes, and a light jacket (weather can change). If riding the train, bring layers as open-air carriages can be cooler on the move.

Facilities & Services

Kawakawa has a small supermarket, cafés, takeaway shops, petrol station, and the Memorial Library Centre. Banking services are limited. Public toilets (of course) are available, and the Hundertwasser facilities are clean and well-maintained despite their constant use.

Visitor Tips

Check Train Schedules: If the vintage railway experience is important to you, check the schedule in advance.  Confirm which days Gabriel (the steam engine) is operating, as the experience differs significantly from diesel services.

Allow Extra Time: While you can see the toilets in 15 minutes, Kawakawa’s charm reveals itself to those who linger. The railway station, art gallery, and general atmosphere reward unhurried exploration.

Combine Attractions: If timing allows, combine the Hundertwasser Toilets with a train ride and perhaps Kawiti Caves for a fuller experience of what makes Kawakawa special.

Respect the Toilets: These are functional public facilities that people genuinely need to use. While they’re an art installation and tourist attraction, be considerate of those using them for their intended purpose.

Support Local: The art gallery, cafés, and railway all depend on visitor support. Your purchases and patronage help sustain the community that has worked to preserve and share these unique attractions.

Local Listings to Explore

Tours & Activities

Bay of Islands Vintage Railway Historic steam and diesel train journeys from Kawakawa to Taumarere, featuring Gabriel the 1927 steam engine. 2-hour round trip through countryside, over the longest curved wooden viaduct in the Southern Hemisphere, with commentary. Operating year-round on varying schedules.

Kawiti Glowworm Caves 30-minute guided tours of privately-owned limestone caves featuring thousands of glowworms, underground streams, and cultural interpretation by descendants of Chief Kawiti. Located 8 minutes south of Kawakawa on SH1.

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Accommodation Near Kawakawa

While most visitors base themselves in Paihia or Kerikeri, accommodation options exist in and around Kawakawa for those wanting a quieter, more inland experience within easy reach of both the coast and Northland’s interior attractions.

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Food & Drink

Kawakawa offers cafés and takeaway options along the main street, convenient for a meal or coffee before or after exploring the town’s attractions. For a wider dining selection, Paihia is just 20 minutes away.

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